A Month of Scottish Gravestones - Dornoch Kirkyard

I first discovered Dornoch Kirkyard in 2016 on my way to Orkney. The town itself is quite historic, having been a royal burgh. Being a royal burgh, it held a market in what was then the town centre, next to where the Cathedral stands. Although the current kirkyard is walled, this was not always the case. Indeed, the wall was added in 1814.

Previous to that, the kirkyard was an open space, with a road running through it. And the market stalls would be set up once a week. The evening before the markets would see the kirkyard abuzz with merchants getting their stalls ready for the two days of transactions. 

One of the rather unusual elements in the kirkyard, which is a remnant of the time when markets were held here, is the long, moss covered table slab known as a Plaiden Ell.

An Ell is a measurement used for measuring cloth. It measures 37 inches, or just over a yard. 

The cloth would be laid out on the ell much the same way current fabric stores lay the cloth out on a table which has a yardstick nailed to it. People would then purchase as many ells as required for their family's clothing. 

Of note as well, is that because the wall is a relatively recent addition to the kirkyard, the cemetery of old extends well beyond it, running under the streets on both sides of the Cathedral. 

Caithness and Sutherland

On Monday morning, we had breakfast and then wandered across the street to the Dornoch Cathedral. The Cathedral first received it's charter in the 13th century and was the cathedral church for the diocese of Caithness.

The Cathedral was burned down in 1570 by the MacKays of Strathnaver. The repairs were one of the most costly for any church repairs in history at that time, and were paid for by the Duchess of Sutherland.

The remains of several generations of Sutherlands are buried in the family plot which is below the chancel floor.

Sarcophagus of Richard de Moravia, brother of the founder of the Cathedral

From the Cathedral, we did a quick whip round of some of the historic sites in Dornoch before heading on to Rogart to see the Macdonald Cairn, a memorial to the grandparents of Sir John A. Macdonald.

cairn to the memory of Sir John's grandparents
made from stones recovered from their cleared croft

Then we headed to Helmsdale to see the Emigrant Statue

The Emigrants: Father looking forward, mother looking back to Scotland

After a lovely lunch at La Mirage, we made our way through Caithness, heading to Thurso and the ferry port at Scrabster. 

We stopped at Badbea to see the Clearance Village. The wind was howling so hard it sounded like jet engines overhead. Ed and I ventured off to see the ruins of this once vibrant community. 

remnants of a croft

path to the edge of the village

a cairn on the edge of the sea

the heather is in bloom

Ed getting just the right picture

Working to stay upright in the gale force winds

What a Difference a Day Makes

It's hard to believe that in 24 hours we went from being at Pearson airport to being in Dornoch. The time change made it seem longer, of course, but in reality, it was just day.

We enjoyed a pre-flight drink and dinner before we got boarded our flight.

Toronto

Two short hours later, we were in Halifax for a layover. Another opportunity for a pre-flight drink. The plane was delayed 30 minutes to save us from having to hover over Glasgow for half an hour upon arrival.

Getting the aircraft ready for the overseas flight

The flight from Halifax to Glasgow was jam packed. Fortunately is was just under 5 hours, so quite manageable. Before we knew it, the sun was rising and we were landing in sunny  Glasgow. 

The Titan on the Clyde as we arrive in Glasgow

It was chucking rain when we arrived to the " good news, bad news" announcement that while we were on time, we were also getting stairs sent to the aircraft rather than being led up to an enclosed gate.

It was a quick trip through customs and a long walk to the restaurant for a full Scottish before heading out on our journey.

Full Scottish breakfast

We were en route to Dornoch, with Inverness being our first point of interest. The weather was truly Scottish weather, changing hourly - or in some instances, every five minutes. Drizzle, pitching rain, sun, overcast and the cycle began again. We had purchased tickets at the last minute to the Highland Tattoo in Inverness, but decided to give it a miss given the chance for more than just a drizzle.

Instead, we enjoyed a lovely meal and even lovelier natter at the Castle Tavern. Definitely a must stop if ever you find yourself in Inverness.

Steak and Ale pie

View from our table

We are stationed at the very lovely and very historic Dornoch Castle hotel. This was never really a castle, but rather the home of the bishop of Caithness. The castle dates from 1500 although has seen some wear thanks to the ever present clan feuds, this one between the McKays and the Murrays in 1570 when, in fact, the castle was set on fire. In the year of the Sutherland Clearances, the castle served as both a school and a jail. By 1860, the Castle was serving as the Courthouse and headquarters for the Sheriff of Sutherland.

Dornoch Castle

The Castle fell into disrepair but has been lovingly restored and now serves as a hotel and restaurant. The bar is large, cozy and has an award winning whisky bar (the gin isn't too bad, either.)

Guest room

Wee hidey hole for a dram on the way up the stairs

It has been a whirlwind but we are HERE. In Scotland. And loving every minute of it.

Oh Dornoch!

Once I arrived in Edinburgh, I hired a car and started my way north - Destination: Orkney. Orkney has been on my bucket list for a while now. But rather than flying in, I chose to drive so that I could also spend some time in the Highlands.

My destination the first night was a B&B in Tain. The next day I was up, had breakfast and was off. My first stop was Dornoch. I discovered that the heritage museum, Historylinks, has put together an historic walking tour with waymarks.

I was able to visit the Cathedral

Sarcophagus of Sir Richard DeMoravia, brother of Gilbert, the Cathedral's founder

 Dornoch Cathedral Charter 1223

The remnants of the old Castle, now an upscale hotel and restaurant

 And the old Jail, now a boutique shop

Dornoch had an Inn that provided a temporary home for those who had been cleared from the Sutherland Estate

I was also able to visit the stone marker that marks the spot where the last witch was executed in Scotland. Although the stone reads 1722, the execution actually occurred in 1729 and 9 years after the execution, punishment by death for witchcraft was rescinded. 

I spent far more time in Dornoch than I had planned, but the history was too absorbing to leave without seeing it!