Farewell to Inveraray

The sun was glorious on Sunday, ahead of the Bank Holiday and that brought out the visitors to the town. The bikers gathered along the pier, the kids enjoyed an ice cream and a game of football by the loch, the shops were busy and the town had a very different feel to it than it had the previous two days.

On Monday, I had one last wander around the town before heading to Edinburgh. I decided to take the "overland" route rather than a direct drive on the motorway.

From Inverary, I headed south east to Balquidder, passing alongside Loch Awe with the old defensive stronghold of the the Campbells of Glenorchy in it's midst. Kilchurn Castle is in ruins now but would have had quite an imposing presence in its day

My first stop was at Balquidder, home of Rob Roy's Grave. Roy was perhaps the best known of the Wild MacGregors who were cattle rustlers and thieves in the Trossachs. His resting place is the kirkyard of Balquidder Parish Church.

The old kirk dates from 1631, replacing a previous church built in 1250

Worship on this site has taken place for about 4,000 years. On the hill behind the current church the Druids would carry out their Beltane and Samhain festivals and people would light their hearth fires from the fires of the festival, hoping that warmth and goodness would continue to come to them throughout the year.

St Angus is said to have chosen Balquidder in the 8th century because it was a "thin place", where the spiritual world and the earthly world come closer together. Angus preached by a boulder on the bank of the river where river and glen meet. The stone was moved into the church in 1919 and is now used as a baptismal font.

Angus' grave slab was also brought into the church in 1919

The current church dates from 1853. 

After leaving the church and grave yard, I ended up taking a wrong turn, which was made better by the ability to see these beautiful beasts in the Glen

Inveraray Jail

Yesterday afternoon, I toured the Old Jail in Inveraray. 

The Jail exhibits really are well done. The story boards explain the social and legal aspects of the times in which the prison was active. Actual cases are also shared on story boards, giving one a wonderful sense of live in days gone by. 

In addition to the story boards, the audio guide gives more detailed information about the running and day to day existence for the prisoners. 

 The courtroom

 Hammocks were used as beds

 All prisoners were stripped upon entry to the jail

 They were given a hot bath

 using lye soap to clear them of "vermin" 

The prisoners then washed their own clothing 

Each prisoner was allowed one hour a day in the "airing yard" for exercise and fresh air

Once the jail was separated into two buildings - one for women and one for men, the women were given chores in the kitchen and laundry while men worked to pick oakum or repair nets. 

Of particular interest to me was the ability to see some of the archival records that were used to put the displays together. 

When I was in the Highland Museum in Fort William last year, I saw the birching table. A replica is on display at the jail in Inverary.  Also on display are the "whipping" registers

Social history museums are such vital resources to assist us in understanding the times in which our ancestors lived. Inveraray Jail provides just such a window into the past. 

Auchindrain

Just six miles south of Inveraray is the only remaining farming township, Auchindrain. At one time some 4,000 of these communities dotted the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. Auchindrain was abandoned in 1962 when the last member of the farming community, Eddie McCallum, moved into Furnace. The township is now managed by a charity trust. 

A wander around Auchindrain gives an incredible and unique glimpse into the lives of ordinary people in the Highlands of Scotland. Our ancestors. Farmers. Not crofters - those came later. Townships like Auchindrain, a cluster of buildings scattered on a landscape, in random position to one another, yet all connected by the land they shared. This was a truly communal way of life. The animals were placed on the outskirts of the township on the less arable land. The homes were simple and functional. Generally one room which served as a living area, kitchen and sleeping quarters. Some of the homes, longhouses, created a divide between their living and sleeping quarters. Longhouses also had a byre (barn) at one end for the animals to be sheltered. The barn held one or two cattle and a working horse. 

The land was divided into rigs, or strips of land, each strip being tended by one family. The families rotated rigs every couple of years, ensuring everyone had a chance at the best land. The manure from the animals kept the crops well fertilized. The weather is/was often drizzly and water was abundant. In order that the crops not be flooded out, a series of irrigation ditches were dug by the farmers to move the water away from the rigs. 

Cattle were the mainstay of farming life, providing milk, meat and fertilizer. Those not slaughtered for the community were rounded up and driven (walked in droves) into the nearest market or to markets further south where they were sold. The money then went to pay rents or to add to the needs of the township. 

Auchindrain still has sheep and hens that wander freely. The hens are fed organic foods and produce some of the finest tasting eggs in the area. Because the township continues to look and work the way it always has, animal droppings are abundant. Another little glimpse into the everyday lives of our farming ancestors. 

Each home also had a kailyard, an enclosed garden where vegetables and herbs were grown for the family's use. Many also had a stackyard, an enclosed area where grains were stored for use during the winter months. 

Three buildings in the township held particular fascination for me. The first and perhaps the most compelling for me is Bell a'Phuill's house (Bell who lives by the muddy place). A single room home. Perhaps it was the wonderfully comforting smell of the peat fire that drew me to the home. 

Bell, whose name was actually Isabella McCallum, live in this single room home with her two children. The thatched roof needs to be replaced every 7 years. 

The second house that held my fascination was the Slate House. The only one in the township with a slate roof. 

Now used as a barn for the hens, this was once the barn housing horses. You can see the rain barrel in the back corner of the building. 

And the third building that fascinated me, and perhaps the more modern of any of them outwith the visitor centre and office, is what was once Eddie McCallum's home. This is a traditional longhouse. 

Seen here with the barn next door, the longhouse was separated into living space and kitchen, sleeping quarters and then the barn. 

 Auchindrain is unique. Auchindrain is a window into a life long lost yet one that was a vital and common way of life for those in the highlands and islands. I encourage anyone and everyone with highland ancestors to pay a visit to Auchindrain. Your understanding of your ancestor's lives will be enriched beyond measure. Thanks to the hard work of the Auchindrain Trust and their strong belief that the township should remain as it was, not prettied up, tidied up or re-created in any way that is not authentic. Well done to each and every one of them. 

To Inveraray

It has probably been a decade since I was last in Inveraray. There are so many things I want to see in the area, so decided that this year, ahead of the Edinburgh Tour, I would spend a weekend. The trip from the airport is an easy 90 minute drive through Loch Lomond and the Trossachs and entering the Argyll Forest. Incredibly pretty. 

I am staying at Brambles, a quaint and charming inn on the main street. I had pre-arranged to meet colleague George Mackenzie for a catch up. Thanks to Inveraray's extensive dog friendly approach, I was also able to meet George's Border Terrier, Bramble (no connection to the Inn). Bramble is quite a star in the bistro. She particularly enjoyed her Canadian Bacon flavoured Northern Biscuits treats. 

It was a terrific opportunity to catch up with George who now runs a B&B on Seil (also dog friendly). After a couple of hours chatting, we wandered the streets and I was able to get some wonderful insights into the history of the area from George. 

Then it was time to check in to my room. After a sleepless night on the flight the bed looked awfully inviting. 

But not nearly inviting as the thought of a nice deep soak in the old claw tub. 

Air Transat: Improved Doesn't Mean Better

Last year, Air Transat purchased 10 new A310 Airbuses to upgrade their fleet of aircraft. However, these wider bodied jets do nothing to improve the passenger experience. 

The airbus is also higher inside, which means that unless you carry a step ladder as your carry on, getting your luggage into the overhead bins is nothing short of an athletic endeavour. All allowable 22 pounds is to be swung up over your head and *gently* placed in the bin. You then need to put stilts on to grab the compartment door to close the bin. Taking the luggage back out of the overhead compartment is a serious injury waiting to happen to the person on the aisle seat. 

As usual, I chose a window seat. After years of being knocked and bumped while in an aisle seat, I prefer to go with less hazards and more general comfort. Except in an Air Transat Airbus. The seats are precisely 16 inches wide. Their trays are 12 inches wide by 9 inches deep. Not nearly enough room for the food tray and to be able to manouver around that. My bun, extra cutlery and butter slid down the side of the seat never to be seen again. Because the elbow room from armrest to armrest is about 14 inches wide, eating is a task to be mastered. ALL activity must be done at midline, with elbows pressed tightly against one's sides. Picture eating while wearing a straight jacket that has only the hands exposed. 

The upgrades also did not include the menu. Air Transat is notorious for disgusting, unappealing, unpalatable food. It astounds me the amount of food that gets thrown out. Were it not for the fact that it has been picked over as people attempt to find something of quality or even that is recognizable on their trays, the left over food from 346 passengers times the number of flights per day may well be the answer to ending global hunger. Not to worry, though, as always, Air Transat plies the free wine as though it were flowing from a fountain. 

And while the fleet might have been upgraded, it has not been updated. There is an app that passengers are encouraged to download which allows streaming of movies, tv shows, games and kids activities. However, there are no charging ports on the plane. And since streaming chews up battery power, I'm not sure how that is supposed to work. Compare the lack of charging ports on the new aircraft with not only charging ports but the option of purchasing access to the internet (for a small charge) on both Air Canada and WestJet and one has to wonder why choose Air Transat? Certainly it isn't because the customer experience is better. Or that the flights are cheaper. Maybe it really does come down to the free wine.